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Horse Meat

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Hippophagy; Or, Should We Eat Our Horses?

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From Contributions to Natural History (1865)
by David Esdaile

DOCTOR JOHNSON'S beautiful story of 'Kasselas' has made everybody acquainted with the Abyssinian prince who, satiated with the good things of this life, offered a noble reward to the inventor of a new pleasure. The pleasure which the learned, eloquent, and most benevolent Professor of Zoology to the Faculty of Sciences at Paris proposes for our acceptance is certainly not new ; for many a comfortable meal of nutritious horseflesh ay, of ass, mule, and zebra flesh has been made of old time, and by many nations further advanced in acquaintance with alimentary substances than we con-

* 'Lettres sur les Substances Alimentaires, et particulierement
sur la Viande de Cheval.' Par M. Isidore Geofifroy Saint-Hil-
aire, Membre de 1'Institut, Professeur de Zoologie a la Faculte"
des Sciences de Paris, &c. Victor Masson ; Paris.



2 HIPPOPHAGY. 

ceited modems are to this day. But the varied learn- 
ing, the literary skill, the benevolent enthusiasm, the 
noble contempt for that peculiar cachination for which 
the equine race gets credit, although only from man do 
we hear what he chooses to call a horse-laugh, these 
are displayed by our learned Professor with a profusion 
by which we have been most agreeably surprised. We 
took up his book with no great expectation of being 
either gratified with a literary treat, or converted to the 
faith of the, as yet, small and derided sect of the Hip- 
pophagi. And yet here are we seriously about to tell 
the public that M. Saint-Hilaire's Letters are most in- 
teresting, and that to laugh at the idea of eating horse- 
flesh is great folly in these our days, when so many are 
so unable to answer the daily-recurring question, "What 
shall we eat?" and when so many must receive from 
charity their daily bread. 

Wise and intellectual folk may turn away in affected 
indifference to flesh - pots and creature - comforts. As 
for ourselves, we are not ashamed to confess that, in 
Count Kumford's Essays, we have read with great de- 
lectation a most appetite-raising chapter, entitled "Of 
the Pleasure of Eating, and of the Means that may be 
employed for increasing it." Moreover, knowing how 
intimately interblended are the moral and the mental 
with the physical elements of our wondrous being, we 
subscribe, with a moderate allowance due to the mot 
of a wit, to the aphorism of a contemporary French- 
man : " Tell me what you eat, and I'll tell you what 
you are."* Mem sana in corpore sano being the per- 
fectibility of human nature in this life, a treatise on 
the best mode of keeping soul and body together on 
alimentary substances, in short is deserving of the 
most careful study, because involving principles for 
the evolution and application of which there is re- 
quired the highest philosophy. Starve a man, or 
maintain him by a minimum expenditure of nutrition, 
* " Que je sache ce que tu manges, et je saurai qui tu es. "



MISERIES OF SEMI-STAKVATION. 3 

and what a miserable creature do you make him ! 
Stunted in his physical organisation, his mental pow- 
ers share in the resulting debility ; and how readily 
our moral perceptions sympathise with our bodily 
condition, we all of us occasionally know, when dis- 
ordered health tries our temper and obscures our judg- 
ment. We therefore assent to this characteristic de- 
claration in one of the earliest productions of the 
benevolent Dr Chalmers : " Let it be remembered that 
Philosophy is never more usefully, and never more 
honourably, directed, than when multiplying the stores 
of human comfort ; than when enlightening the hum- 
blest departments of industry ; than when she descends 
to the walks of business, to the dark and dismal recep- 
tacles of misery; to the hospitals of disease, to the 
putrid houses of our great cities, where Poverty sits in 
lonely and ragged wretchedness, agonised with pain, 
faint with hunger, and shivering in a frail and un- 
sheltered tenement. Count Eumford deserves the gra- 
titude of mankind." This panegyric on Count Rumford, 
better known to the scientific world under his English 
title of Sir Benjamin Thomson, is abundantly merited. 
His Essays are full of important experiments in nutri- 
tion, and from them are derived almost all our so-called 
novelties in modes of heating and ventilation, as well 
as in the construction of cooking utensils of every kind. 
From them the philanthropist will learn with delight how, 
on New-year's Day, the philosophic Count captured all 
the swarming beggars of Munich, introduced them into 
a military workhouse, and soon made them fat, happy, 
and industrious. From them also the careful housewife 
will learn with surprise how truly says the poet, 

"Man needs but little here below ; " 

for the Bavarian soldier, who is very fond of eating, 
and whose situation is as comfortable as that of any 
soldier in Europe, lives, we are told, on twopence 
a-day ; so skilled is he in the science of cookery.



4 H1PPOPHAGY. 

If our old friend Count Kumford deserves to live in 
the public memory as a benefactor to the human race, 
because of his benevolent ingenuity in turning to the 
best account the usual articles of food, M. Saint-Hilaire 
claims a niche in the temple of fame on account of his 
eloquent and scientific demonstration of the excellent 
qualities of a species of food the prejudice against the 
use of which, in Europe at least, is inveterate, and 
almost universal. The human stomach, at least when 
hungry, is not apt to be sentimental ; but it is aston- 
ishingly apt to be squeamish and whimsical. Hence 
the strenuous efforts of his Government have only par- 
tially induced the white-snail-eating Austrian to par- 
take of horse-flesh ; and if Louis Napoleon were to de- 
clare it his imperial pleasure that Paris should consume 
a large proportion of this really excellent food, what a 
dangerous commotion would there be among the frog- 
eaters on the banks of the Seine ! 

M. Saint-Hilaire is well aware of the inveteracy of 
the prejudice which obstructs his philanthropy ; for nine 
years he exposed its folly in the presence of the enlight- 
ened audiences which yearly listened with delight to 
his lectures in the Museum of Natural History ; and, 
so anxious was he to give it the coup-de-grace, that for 
several months he suspended the publication of his 
4 General Natural History,' in order that he might publish 
the thoroughly practical work on which we are now 
commenting. " May it," he exclaims, " be the death- 
blow to that silly prejudice against which I have been 
contending for nine years, and against which I shall 
contend so long as I witness the deplorable spectacle 
of millions of Frenchmen deprived of animal food ; eat- 
ing it six times, twice, once a-year ! and in presence of 
this misery millions of pounds of good meat given over 
to industry every month for secondary purposes, aban- 
doned to swine and dogs, or even cast into the dung- 
hill." 

To know that there are many as miserable as them-



COMPULSORY VEGETARIANS. 5 

selves is a kind of comfort. We therefore compassion- 
ately remind these distressed Frenchmen, that though 
to be omnivorous is one of the distinctions betwixt man 
and the brutes, yet, in fact, only a small proportion of the 
human race is actually carnivorous ; and that for more 
than sixteen hundred years the entire population of the 
earth was restricted to a vegetable diet ; for not till after 
the Flood did the Almighty say to Noah and his sons, 
"Every moving thing that liveth shall be meat for you ; 
even as the green herb have I given you all things." 
(Gen. ix. 37.) As an additional crumb of comfort for 
non-flesh-eating Frenchmen, we add, that the idea of 
" John Bull" living on animal food is unhappily a fic- 
tion. " If ' John Bull ' means two-thirds of the popula- 
tion, ' John Bull ' is living on vegetable diet, and not 
more than one-third of him is nourished by meat/'* 
Speaking of the Dorsetshire peasantry, Mr Thornton, in 
his work on Over-Population, observes : u As for meat, 
most of them would not know its taste, if once or twice 
in the course of their lives on the squire's having a 
son and heir born to him, or on the young gentleman's 
coming of age they were not regaled with a dinner of 
what the newspapers call 'Old English Fare.' Some of 
them contrive to have a little bacon in the proportion, 
it seems, of a half-pound a-week to a dozen persons ; 
but they more commonly use fat, to give the potatoes a 
relish ; and, as one of them told Mr Austin, they don't 
always go without cheese." In Scotland, the mass of 
the people are compulsory vegetarians, oatmeal and 
milk being the national fare. Pigs are kept by the 
Scottish peasantry very generally, but often they are 
not eaten by their families, but sold, owing to the high 
price given for pork by kramers** that is, men who 
go through the country buying pigs, butter, and eggs 

* Symon's 'Arts and Artizans.' 

** Kramer is in Germany the term for a petty huxter, or small 
merchant. It is curious to find the word similarly applied in 
Forfarshire.



6 HIPPOPHAGY. 

for London and other great cities. Ireland is notori- 
ously the land of pigs and potatoes, but unfortunately 
the Irish peasant does not eat but sells his pig " the 
gentleman that pays the rint." 

If the cold of these northern regions did not sharpen 
the appetite, and demand the use of fatty substances 
for the comfortable nutrition of human beings, the 
people of the British Isles would have little reason to 
complain because of being generally restricted to vege- 
table fare, small acquaintance with flesh-pots being the 
lot of the people almost everywhere ; a mere fraction of 
the human race being carnivorous, though furnished 
with means of masticating and assimilating animal food. 
But with our climate, and with the active labours re- 
quired from most of us, the liberal use of animal food is 
indispensable for the development and maintenance of 
our bodily vigour. We lately read with amazement of 
the vegetable fare solely employed by a singularly lusty 
English blacksmith a teetotaller, moreover. But how 
long will his strength endure? We beseech him to 
meditate on the fate of M. le Docteur Stard, who, trying 
a philosophical experiment, died while flattering him- 
self that he was only weakened by a vegetable diet. 
Let him also meditate on this novel illustration of the 
saying that " hunger will tame a lion." A lion, fed for 
many years on milk-soup ! was presented in 1855 to 
the Menagerie of the Museum of Natural History, Paris. 
The poor brute was as quiet as a sheep, and so debili- 
tated as to be in extremis. An instant change of diet 
was resolved upon. In a month horse-flesh restored 
his natural ferocity, and now he is magnificent ! In 
constitution, a brose-fed Scottish ploughman is on the 
verge of old age in his fiftieth year. We invite atten- 
tion to this fact, and we trust those interested in the 
public hygiene will ponder well the distressing statement 
that in some parts of England scanty nutrition is un- 
fitting the labourer for toil, and, by weakening his thews 
and sinews, incapacitating him for serving his country,



NEED OF ANIMAL FOOD. 7 

either in peace or in war ; for guiding the plough, or 
wielding sword and bayonet. The recruiting officers in 
the south-eastern counties complain that in size and 
strength the peasantry are inferior to those of the north 
and north-midland counties, and farmers observe the 
same variation in the amount of labour which they can 
obtain from their men.* This deteriorated race gives 
birth to a yet more enfeebled offspring ; so that the de- 
sire to arrest this degeneration of the physical constitu- 
tion of the British people should make us give willing 
ear to such a man as M. Saint-Hilaire, when propound- 
ing his views on a matter of such importance as that 
regarding the means of public nutrition. 

He discusses, in the first place, the normal laws of 
nutrition established by Liebig and other eminent 
chemists, who demonstrate that flesh-eating animals 
are in general stronger than the herbivorous on which 
they prey, and that no other substance equals animal 
food in the production of flesh, and in the reparation of 
muscular energy expended in labour. Hence the neces- 
sity of providing it for the labouring classes everywhere, 
and especially in northern climates and in great cities. 
Is it sufficiently supplied? Evidently not. Adopting 
83 kilogrammes a-year as the normal rate of nutrition 
necessary for the comfortable existence of human beings, 
M. Saint-Hilaire demonstrates that this is so far from 
being attained in France, that to arrive at it demands 
the production of three and a-half times more animal 
food than France actually produces. Instead of 83 kilo- 
grammes, Frenchmen, on the average, only consume 28 
kilogrammes of animal food per annum. " The differ- 
ence between the normal and the actual consumption is 
enormous," exclaims the Professor, "the deficit im- 
mense ! " We need hardly inform our readers that he 
proposes to supply this deficit by the consumption of 
horse-flesh, "a reserve for which we need not cross 
the sea, nor even the frontier, which is always at hand, 
* Thornton on Over-Population.



8 HIPPOPHAGY. 

and the benefit of which we may have to-morrow if we 
please to will it to-day." 

Whether M. Saint-Hilaire ever heard of the well- 
known recipe for hare-soup, beginning with, "First 
catch your hare," we know not. Certain it is that 
he, very considerately, first informs us where we may 
find the horses on which he invites us to feed. With most 
praiseworthy precision he states the relative propor- 
tions of the various animal products consumable in 
France ; from which it results that the supply of horse- 
flesh is equal to one-fourth of the animal food consumed 
at present. " Singular social anomaly, the long endur- 
ance of which will one day excite amazement ! There 
are millions of Frenchmen who never eat flesh, while 
every month millions of pounds of good meat are ap- 
plied to very secondary uses, or even thrown into the 
dunghill. Behold what science herself has authorised 
up to this day, at least by her silence ! as if even she 
were afraid to oppose a popular prejudice, and to open 
her hand and spread abroad useful truths which she 
had in her possession." 

" After the question of quantity comes that of qua- 
lity," so begins part second of these interesting Let- 
ters. This is the point where our Professor most needs 
his rhetorical skill, and appeals to facts and testimonies 
of the enlightened few who, in Europe, have tried 
Hippophagy. His appeal to our palate is so irresis- 
tible that, being about to sit down to dinner, we are 
heartily sorry at not having the prospect of seeing at 
our table vol-au-vents d 'amourette from the spinal mar- 
row of a horse ; nor horse-soup, nor horse-pie d la mode; 
nor a roast of horse-chine, all of which, we know, 
were lately received with " explosions de satisfaction" 
by a party of Parisian HippophagL 

Eeasoning from analogy, we should expect little 
difference in the nutritious qualities of the flesh of the 
horse and the ox. Like our best butcher-meat animals, 
the horse is herbivorous. The only notable difference



HORSE-FLESH NUTRITIOUS. 9 

is the greater amount in the flesh of the horse of the 
principle of kreatine, that nitrogenous substance dis- 
covered in 1833 in beef-soup by Chevreul, who has 
found it in all the vertebrate animals, and which, ac- 
cording to Liebig, plays an important part in almost 
all vital actions. This excess of Jcreatine should add 
to the alimentary value of horse-flesh. Theory and 
experiment are on this point in happy union ; and M. 
Saint-Hilaire quotes varied and most competent testi- 
mony showing its superiority. We can only refer to 
the experience of the illustrious surgeon Larrey, who 
thus sums up his long and distinguished practice in 
camps and hospitals : 

*' I have very often, and with the greatest success, 
given horse-flesh to the soldiers and the wounded of our 
armies. In several of our campaigns on the Ehine, 
in Catalonia, and the maritime Alps, I caused it, under 
various circumstances, to be given to our soldiers ; 
but, above all, we found the very great benefit of this 
meat during the siege of Alexandria in Egypt. Not 
only did it save the lives of the troops defending that 
city; it powerfully contributed to the cure and invigora- 
tion of the numerous sick and wounded in our hospitals, 
and likewise aided in the removal of a scorbutic epidemic 
which seized the whole army. There was a regular daily 
distribution of this meat ; and most fortunately the 
number of horses was sufficient to bring the army up 
to the time of the capitulation. These animals, of the 
Arab breed, were extremely thin, owing to the scarcity 
of fodder, but they were generally young. In order to 
overcome the prejudice of the soldiers, I was the first 
to kill my horses and eat this food. 

" After the battle of Esslingen, shut up in the island 
of Lobau, with the greater part of the French army 
and about six thousand wounded, I caused soup to be 
made of the numerous horses scattered over the island, 
and belonging to the generals and superior officers. 
The breastplates of those dismounted, and of the



10 HIPPOPHAGY. 

wounded, served as coppers for cooking this meat ; 
and instead of salt, of which we were destitute, it was 
seasoned with gunpowder. I only had the trouble of 
pouring the soup from one breastplate into another 
through a linen cloth, and of then allowing it to clarify 
by rest. Marshal Massena, commander-in-chief of the 
troops, was right glad to share in my repast, and was 
very well pleased with it. Experience thus demon- 
strates that horse-flesh is most proper nourishment for 
man." 

Oh that this had been remembered in the Crimea ! 
We should never have heard of the sufferings of the 
wretched horses which crunched each other's tails ; 
and many a sick and wounded man might have received 
that nourishment for want of which he pined and died 
on the bleak plateau around Sebastopol. In the debate 
on the Crimean Commission, in the House of Commons, 
General Peel, speaking of the want of forces for the 
making of a road from Balaklava to Sebastopol, ob- 
served that " it had originated from the impossibility 
of finding forage for more than a certain number of 
animals in the Crimea, and that number was already 
exceeded by the horses of the cavalry, the artillery, and 
others. The common-sense view would have been to 
reduce the number of horses to the power of feeding 
them. The proper course would have been to have re- 
embarked a portion of them." Not a hoof of them, 
say we. They should have been slaughtered and 
eaten, instead of being permitted to die by inches, and 
their carcasses to diffuse the odour of the most fetid 
corruption in the vicinity of over- wrought, under-fed, 
sick and wounded men. What was excellent food for 
Frenchmen would have been equally good for British 
troops ; and if Massena and Larrey thought horse-flesh 
dainty fare when seasoned with gunpowder, we are 
very decidedly of opinion that General Peel would 
have no reason to complain were he doomed for a few 
months to a dietary such as nerved the French defen-



"GOUT" OF HORSE-FLESH. 11 

ders of Alexandria, and the isolated troops in the isle 
of Lobau. The conclusion of the distinguished Parent- 
Duchatelet, the highest authority in all that affects the 
public health, is in these words : " This kind of food 
was very good and much sought after in ancient times. 
It has not changed its nature, and it is as suitable for 
modern stomachs as it was for those of our ancestors ; 
for stomachs strong and healthy, but also for the sick 
and wounded, whose strength it restores, and whose 
convalescence it confirms. And it is not necessary that 
the animals should be fat, or that they should have never 
suffered, as some may suppose ; for beneficial effects may 
be obtained from horses extremely emaciated by famine." 
So that we are not amusing our readers with the un- 
profitable talk of a mere litterateur, but communicating 
the knowledge of facts, by the application of which the 
wants of the poor may be supplied, the sick and debili- 
tated restored and invigorated, the health of armies 
maintained, great battles won, and prolonged sieges 
endured. 

But "what is the gout of horse-flesh?" Have pa- 
tience, courteous readers, and we shall make your teeth 
water 1 Horse-dinners vulgo (banquets hippophagiques, 
in Parisian phrase) have been quite the vogue of late 
in Paris, Kcenigsbaden, Wirtemberg, Weimar, Munich, 
Vienna, Dresden, and many other places ; many of 
those in Germany being by public subscriptions. Those 
in Paris have been especially recherches, and attended 
by such a variety of distinguished guests as to elevate 
them to the rank of scientific experiments. Though in 
possession of the culinary triumphs of the German 
Hippophagij we shall spare our readers the recital, and 
give them instead an account of a Parisian "horse- 
dinner," from, the graceful pen of the witty M. le Doc- 
teur Amedee Latour, who takes care to inform us that 
it was not written on his rising from table, but twenty- 
four hours after, when, he solemnly depones, he was 
suffering not the least digestive remorse. " The expe-



12 HIPPOPHAGY. 

riment begins. M. Eenault has most intelligently made 
the arrangements. Side by side are the subjects to be 
experimented on the matters to be compared. 

" Horse-soup Beef-soup. 
Horse -boil Beef -boil. 
Roast-horse Roast-beef. 

le The same quantity, the same sort judge and com- 
pare nothing better. 

lc Horse-soup general astonishment ! It's perfect ! 
it's excellent ! it's feeding ! it's like venison ! it's aro- 
matic I it's rich- tasted ! it's a' first-rate and admirable 
soup ! 

" The beef-soup is good, but comparatively inferior, 
of less marked gout, less flavoured, less tasty. The 
jury unanimously find that the horse yields soup of 
superior quality, that it is impossible to distinguish the 
taste of it from that of the richest beef-soups, and that 
persons not warned could not find out the difference. 
The same colour, the same clearness. 

" Boiled-horse the flesh is browner than beef ; it is 
drier, and less resisting under the teeth ; no particular 
taste ; it is the taste of boiled beef, but not of the first 
class. I have eaten better beef, but also much worse. 
Upon the whole, it is very eatable ; poor people who 
buy inferior beef, or cow-beef, would find a very sen- 
sible difference in favour of boiled-horse. 

" Roast-horse. It is the chine of the animal slightly 
salted and highly spiced. An explosion of satisfac- 
tion! Nothing finer, more delicate, or more tender. The 
fillet of venison, whose aroma it recalls, is not its supe- 
rior. It's perfect in all points. 

"Summing up: Soup superior. 

Soil good, and very eatable. 
Roast exquisite. 

" Is not this a very interesting experiment ?" 
Truly yes, say we. And here is another, rather



"BANQUET HIPPOPHAGIQUE." 13 

comical. M. Saitit-Hilaire was President of the So- 
ciety of Acclimatation. Having invited a member of this 
society to taste of a kind of meat undoubtedly new to him, 
the learned doctor thought his opinion was sought for 
in regard to some rare and newly-introduced animal ; 
and so, after having duly tasted it, he gave it thus : 
" In my opinion it is of the utmost importance to accli- 
matise this animal." It was horse-flesh ! 

These things being so, how comes it that there is 
such a prejudice against such a valuable article of 
food ? Our Professor hunts down this prejudice wher- 
ever displayed. He first falls foul of certain Chinese 
doctors who have interdicted the use of horse-flesh in 
their much-admired production, Chi-wou-pen-thsao-hoei- 
tsouan. And certainly he does make mince-meat of 
these poor Chinese, who, in the plenitude of their wis- 
dom, declare that to eat of a white horse with a black 
foot, or of a white horse with a black head, will make a 
man mad. These worthies also teach that to hang up 
a monkey in a stable is an infallible preventive of all 
horse-diseases. 

In reference to European prejudice, M. Saint-Hilaire 
remarks : " One cannot directly attack, as I have at- 
tacked, an old idea without encountering the warmest 
opposition, any more than you can pull up a deeply- 
rooted tree without vigorous efforts." And so he rides 
his hobby with a firm seat, and is as little daunted by 
the folly of fools as by the sneers of witlings, or the 
objections of reasonable people. He discusses with 
much dignity and good temper the objections of his 
learned friends, MM. Valenciennes and Milne Edwards, 
and proves that they are in error when supposing that 
only the flesh of young horses is good, inasmuch as 
most satisfactory meals have been made upon animals 
from seventeen up to twenty-five years old. To certain 
objectors, to whom he declines to apply the epithet 
savants, who allege that the public sale of horse-flesh 
would excite among those using it a feeling of ill-will



14 HIPPOPHAGY. 

against the consumers of superior butcher-meat such 
as beef, veal, and mutton' he says : " Why not on this 
principle renounce also butcher-meat ? Those who only 
eat beef might be jealous of those who eat poultry and 
game." As to the rise in the price of horse-flesh, and 
the consequent limitation in the use of it when its 
consumption shall become general, it is argued that it 
will be long before this happens ; and that, when it 
does happen, it will be a public benefit, by reducing 
the price of butcher-meat. One fourteenth of an addi- 
tion to the meat consumed at present will infallibly 
arrest that rise in the price of meat, of which in France 
there are such complaints. As to the jokes of a portion 
of the press, our philosopher laughs when they are 
witty ; when heavy he heeds them not. Telum imbelle 
sine ictu. A certain religious journal is afraid that eat- 
ing of horses must end in eating of men ! " When all 
the horses are slaughtered, men must eat one another." 
Our Professor looks very grave on being thus accused 
of preaching Anthropophagy I As to the sentimentalists 
who declaim against slaying and devouring an animal 
which is our friend, companion, and servant in our 
labours, pastimes, and wars, their whining is disposed 
of by the fact that the horse-eating movement is mainly 
supported by the societies instituted for the prevention 
of cruelty to animals. It is undoubtedly more merciful 
to fatten an old horse, and then eat him, than to work 
him till he is a moving skeleton, a mass of sores, a sight 
so piteous as to call forth the indignation of every 
rightly-constituted mind. Those savage abusers of a 
noble animal, who torture and starve the horse, may 
not listen to your humane interpositions in its behalf ; 
but they will hear you when demonstrating that it is 
their interest to send their horses to the knackers in 
tolerable condition ; because as they (i. e., the horses) are 
to be eaten, it is manifest that while a skin full of bones 
may be worth five shillings only, a much higher price 
will be given for a horse tolerably plump.



EQUINE STATISTICS. 15 

In conclusion, we protest against the senseless waste 
of horse-flesh which has hitherto prevailed ; we invite 
public trial of its qualities ; and in order that our read- 
ers may have some idea of the ability of the Scottish 
farmer to meet the demands of those we convert to 
Hippophagy, we beg to add that, according to the agri- 
cultural statistics for 1856, there were in Scotland very 
nearly 180,000 horses. And M'Queen's statistics inform 
us that in the British empire there are 2,250,000 horses, 
valued at 67,000,000. A very considerable proportion 
of these should be eaten. Malformation, incipient dis- 
ease, accidental injuries, render it more profitable to 
kill than to rear, at great expense, animals incapaci- 
tated for labour. Send an injured or enfeebled horse 
to grass, and in four months he will be fat and fit for 
the table. In answer, therefore, to our next query, 
" Should we eat our horses?" we reply, "Under certain 
circumstances, undoubtedly;" and in no case ought we 
to bury the flesh of the horse, when we have the strong- 
est reasons for regarding it as alike nutritious and palat- 
able. Owing to the great value of the horse, the use 
of its flesh, as an article of human food, must in this 
country be limited. Let us, however, avail ourselves 
of it so far as practicable ; and in order that it may no 
longer be wasted, let us dismiss the silly prejudice 
which causes even a half-starved labourer to exhibit 
irrepressible disgust when exhorted to partake of a 
kind of food occasionally within his reach, and known 
to possess in abundance those elements of nutrition so 
scantily supplied by the common fare of the working 
classes. 

We invite our readers to test its value, as we have 
recently done, in a spirit of philosophical inquiry, and, 
we solemnly declare, without the slightest digestive 
remorse, though to the horror of our cook, a privileged 
old servant, who rules the roast, and us too sometimes ! 
Misled by her imagination, and not following her nose 
assuredly, she declared that she perceived " a fearful



16 HIPPOPHAGY. 

smell before the stuff cam' near the door." After we 
had eaten delicious soup and excellent stew, prepared 
by her reluctant hands, the worthy woman thought she 
should pray for us. " The Lord be wi' the maister ! 
After eatin' o' sic an onnat'ral brute, he's shure to tak' 
the worst kind o' jaundice, for it's aye ta'en wi' an 
awfu' scunner."* 

We are happy to announce that the jaundice was all 
in her eye, and that we are enjoying peace of mind 
and body after this first, but we hope not last, trial of 
hippophagy. 

If any exclaim, " Horrid man ! to advise the eating 
of horse-flesh," quietly, good friends, if you please ! 
Have you not eaten of it disguised as Bologna sausage, 
or "Kussian ox-tongues," which, though of undeniable 
merit, are well known to be those of horses ? 

* Anglican, intense disgust.

Hmong Cuisine

mayor@foodsville.com — Sat, 28 Feb 2009 02:40:07

News from the World of Foodsville and Beyond

Not Always Fresh, but Rarely Stale

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Hmong Cuisine

Authentic Hmong Food
Eating in America: Hmong
Cooking from the Heart
The Elusive Hmong Cuisine
Video: Jenny's Eggroll

Of Interest to Neighborhood: Asian

Question of the Day: Have you been to a Hmong home for dinner?

View or Comments

Store Brands

mayor@foodsville.com — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 02:23:22

News from the World of Foodsville and Beyond

Not Always Fresh, but Rarely Stale

Friday, February 27, 2009

Store Brands

Safeway Warns Brands to Cut Back Food Prices
Positioning of Store Brands
Wal-Mart Will Push Its Store-Brand Groceries
The Effect of Store Brand Share on Retail Margins
Store Brands Lift Grocers in Troubled Times

Of Interest to Neighborhood: Community Stories

Question of the Day: What store brands do you buy?

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Musical Fruits and Vegetables

mayor@foodsville.com — Thu, 26 Feb 2009 01:47:14

News from the World of Foodsville and Beyond

Not Always Fresh, but Rarely Stale

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Musical Fruits and Vegetables

Video: 4 Hole Apple Ocarina
Instruments of the Vienna Vegetable Orchestra
People Who Make Music Out of Carrots
Xylophone with Fruit
Growing Sound

Of Interest to Neighborhood: Fruit

Question of the Day: Have you ever made a food musical instrument?

View or Comments

Lent

mayor@foodsville.com — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 03:21:15

News from the World of Foodsville and Beyond

Not Always Fresh, but Rarely Stale

Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Lent

Lent: Call to Conversion
Lenten Pretzels
Operation Rice Bowl
Meatless Lenten Soups
Greek Orthodox Great Lent Food & Traditions

Of Interest to Neighborhood: Holiday

Question of the Day: What are you giving up for Lent?

View or Comments

Food Coloring

mayor@foodsville.com — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 02:15:57

News from the World of Foodsville and Beyond

Not Always Fresh, but Rarely Stale

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

Food Coloring

Food Coloring History
From Foodsville: On Colors
Death of a Dye: Red Dye 2 (1976)
Blue Thoughts
Urban Legends: The Effects of Yellow Dye 5

Of Interest to Neighborhood: Ingredients Central

Question of the Day: What color food won't you eat?

View or Comments

On Colours

mayor@foodsville.com — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 02:19:24

From The Complete Confectioner, Pastry-Cook, and Baker (1864)

ON COLOURS

MANY of the colours prepared for use in this art come more properly under the denomination of dyes, alum and cream of tartar being used as a mordant; and many of them are prepared in the same manner as for dyeing. One of the principal colours requisite for the confectioner's use is coccinella, or cochineal. The sorts generally sold are the black, silver, foxy, and the granille. The insect is of two species, the fine and the wild cochineal; the fine differs from the wild in size, and is also covered with a white mealy powder. The best is of a deep mulberry colour, with a white powder between the wrinkles, and a bright red within. A great deal of adulteration is practised with this article-- both at home and abroad ; it is on this account that persons prefer the silver grain, because it cannot be so well sophisticated. Good cochineal should be heavy, dry, and more or less of a silvery colour, and without smell.

To prepare Cochineal. Pound an ounce of cochineal quite fine, and put it into a pint of river water with a little potash or soda, and let it boil; then add about a quarter of an ounce powdered alum, tho same of cream of tartar, and boil for ten minutes; if it is required for keeping, add two or three ounces of powdered loaf sugar.

Carmine. Reduce one ounce of cochineal to a fine powder, add to it six quarts of clear rain or filtered water, as for cochineal. Put this into a large tin saucepan, or a copper one tinned, and let it boil for three minutes, then add twenty-five grains of alum, and let it boil two minutes longer; take it off the fire to cool; when it is blood warm pour off" the clear liquor into shallow vessels, and put them by to settle for two days, covering them with paper to keep out the dust. In case the carmine has not separated properly, add a few drops of a solution of tin, or a solution of green vitriol, which is tin dissolved in muriatic acid, or the following may be substituted : one ounce and a half of spirit of nitre, three scruples of sal-ammoniac, three scruples of tin dissolved in a bottle, and use a few drops as required. When the carmine has settled, decant off" the clear which is liquid rouge. The first sediment is Florence lake, which remove, and dry the carmine for use. This preparation is by far superior to the first, for in this the same colour is obtained as before, which is the liquid rouge, the other and more expensive parts being invariably thrown away. The carmine can be obtained by f .he first process, as can be seen if the whole is poured into a cleai oottle and allowed to settle, when the carmine will be deposited in a layer of bright red near the bottom. It produces about half an ounce of carmine.

Yellow. Infuse saffron in warm water, and use it for colouring any thing that is eatable. The English hay-saffron is the best ; it is taken from the tops of the pistils of the crocus flower; it is frequently adulterated with the flowers of marygolds or safSower, which is known as the bastard saffron, and is pressed into thin cakes with
oil. Good saffron has a strong agreeable odour, and an aromatic taste. Gum paste and other articles which are not eaten may be coloured with gamboge dissolved in warm water.

Prussian Blue may be used instead of indigo, if preferred, but must be used sparingly.

Sap Green. This is prepared from the fruit of the buckthorn, and is purgative.

Spinach Green. This is perfectly harmless and will answer most
purposes. Wash and drain a sufficient quantity of spinach, pound it well in a mortar, and squeeze the pounded leaves in a coarse cloth to extract all the juice; put it in a pan and set it on a good fire, and stir it occasionally until it curdles, which will be when it is at the boiling point; then take it oft'and strain oft' the water with a fine sieve; the residue left is the green; dry it and rub it through a lawn sieve, This is only fit for opaque bodies, such as ices, creams, or syrups.

Another green is made with a mixture of saffron or gamboge, and prepared indigo; the lighter the green the more yellow must be used.

Vermilion and Cinnabar are preparations of mercury, and should never be used ; they are of a lively red colour, but carmine will answer most purposes instead.

Bole Ammoniac. There is also the French and German bole. These earths are of a pale red, and possess alexipharmic qualities; they are frequently used in confectionary for painting and gilding.

Umber. This is of a blackish brown colour; it is an earth found near Cologne.

Bistre. This is an excellent light brown colour prepared from wood soot.

These browns are harmless, but sugar may be substituted for them to any shade required by continuing the boiling after it has passed the degree of caramel until it is burnt, when it gives a black-brown, but water may be mixed with it so as to lessen the shades. Dissolved chocolate may also be substituted in some cases for the brown colours.

Black. Blue-black is powdered charcoal, or ivory black, which ia obtained from the smoke of burnt ivory; but bone black is generally substituted instead ; either of these may be used, but are only required for painting gum paste, when not intended to be eaten.

Obtain any of these colours in fine powder, and mix them with some dissolved gum Arabic, a little water, and a pinch of powdered sugar candy; mix them to the required consistence for painting. For sugars they must be used in a liquid state, and be added before it has attained the proper degree; it may also be used in the same manner
for ices, creams, &c., and for icings it can be used either way.

THE SHADES PRODUCED BY A MIXTURE OF COLOURS.

Purple. Mix carmine or cochineal, and a small portion of indigo.

Lilac. The same, making the blue predominate.

Orange. Yellow, with a portion of red.

Gold. The same, but the yellow must be more in excess.

Lemon. Use a solution of saffron.

Green. Blue and yellow.

Girl Scout Cookies

mayor@foodsville.com — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 02:54:39

News from the World of Foodsville and Beyond

Not Always Fresh, but Rarely Stale

Monday, February 23, 2009

Girl Scout Cookies

The History of Girl Scout Cookies
Girl Scout Cookies Sales Goals Harder to Reach
Girl Scout Cookie Equivalency Chart
Homemade Girl Scout Cookie
Video: My Addiction to Girl Scout Cookies

Of Interest to Neighborhood: Cookies

Question of the Day: And your favorite flavor is?

View or Comments

Contents of The Complete Confectioner, Pastry-Cook, and Baker (1846)

mayor@foodsville.com — Sat, 21 Feb 2009 23:06:05

From The Complete Confectioner, Pastry-Cook, and Baker
by Eleanor Parkinson

CONTENTS. 



THE CONFECTIONER,. 



SECT. I. Confectionary. 

Clarification of Raw Sugar. .. 

To clarify Loaf Sugar 

Degrees of boiling Sugar 

SYRUP 

Small Thread 

Large Thread 

Little Pearl 

Large Pearl 

CHRYSTALLIZATION 

To ascertain the degree of 
the blow 

The Feather 

CANDY 

The Ball 

The Crack 

Caramel 



SECT. II. Syrups. 

General Rules and Observa- 
tions 

Infusions 

Decoctions 

Raspberry Syrup 

Pine-apple Syrup 

Raspberry Vinegar Syrup .... 

Strawberry Syrup 

Currant Syrup 

Morello Cherry Syrup 

Mulberry Syrup 

Gooseberry Syrup 

Lemon Syrup 

Orange Syrup 

Orange-Flower Syrup 

Sirop de Capillaire. Syrup of 
Maidenhair 

Syrup of Liquorice 

Syrup of Violets 

Syrup of Pinks 

Syrup of Roses 

Syrup of Wormwood 

Syrup of Marshmallows 

Syrup of Sarsaparilla 

Syrup of Coltsfoot 

Syrup of Ginger 23 

Syrup of Almonds 24 

Sirop de Pistache 24 

Syrup of Coffee 24 

Syrup of Rum Punch 24 

Brandy and Wine Syrups .... 24 

' SECTION III. Crystallized Su- 
gar, and articles crystallized, 
commonly called Candies. 
Crystallized or Candied Sugar. . 25 

Fruits to Crystallize 25 

Crystallized Chocolate 26 

Liqueur Rings, Drops and other 

Devices 26 

To form a Chain with Liqueur 

Rings 27 

SECT. IV. Candy Bonbon 
Conserve. 

Ginger Candy 27 

Peppermint, Lemon and Rose 

Candy 

Coltsfoot or Horehound Candy 
Artihcial Fruit, Eggs, &c 
27 

Burnt Almonds 28 

Burnt Almonds Red 28 

Filberts and Pistachios 28 

Common Burnt Almonds 28 

Orange Prawlings 29 

Lemon Prawlings 29 

SECT. V. Crack and Caramel. 

Barley Sugar 29 

Barley Sugar Drops 29 

Barley Sugar Tablets or Kisses 29 

Acid Drops and Sticks 30 

To extract the Acid from Can- 
died Drops, &c 30 

Raspberry Candy 31 

Clove, Ginger, or Peppermint 

Candy 31 

Brandy Balls, &c 31 

Nogat 32 

Almond Rock 32 

Almond Hardbake 32 

ON SUGAR-SPINNING. 

To make a Silver Web 33 

To make a Gold Web 33 

Chantilly Baskets 33 

Grape, Orange, or Cherry Bas- 
kets 34 

Almond Baskets 34 

Spanish Candy 34 

Vases or Baskets, &c., in Span- 
ish Candy 34 

SECT. VI. Chocolate, 

Cacao Nuts 35 

Roasting 35 

The Making of Chocolate 36 

Vanilla Chocolate 36 

Cinnamon, Mace or Clove Cho- 
colate 37 

Stomachic Chocolate 37 

Chocolate Harlequin Pistachios 37 
Chocolate Drops, with Nonpa- 
reils 37 

SECT. VII. Lozenges. 

Peppermint, No. 1 38 

Peppermint, No. 2 38 

Peppermint, Nos. 3 and 4 38 

Transparent Mint, No. 5 38 

Superfine Transparent MintLo- 

zenges 39 

Rose Lozenges 39 

Cinnamon Lozenges 39 

Clove Lozenges 39 

Lavender Lozenges 39 

Ginger Lozenges 39 

Nutmeg Lozenges 39 

Rhubarb Lozenges 39 

Sulphur Lozenges 39 

Tolu Lozenges 39 

Ipecacuanha Lozenges 39 

Saffron Lozenges 40 

Yellow Pectoral Lozenges ... 40 

Lozenges for the Heartburn ... 40 

Steel Lozenges 40 

Magnesia Lozenges 40 

Nitre Lozenges . . . 40 

Marshmallow Lozenges 40 

Vanilla Lozenges 40 

Catechu Lozenges 40 

Catechu a 1' Ambergris 40 

Catechu with Musk 4i> 

Catechu with Orange-flowers.. 40 

Catechu with Violets 40 

Ching's Yellow Worm Lozenges 40 

Ching's Brown Worm Lozenges 41 

Bath Pipe 41 

Peppermint or other Pipes .... 41 

Brilliants 41 

Refined Liquorice 41 

SECTION VIII. Pastile Drops. 

Chocolate Drops 42 

Coffee Drops 42 

Cinnamon Drops 43 

Clove Drops 43 

Vanilla Drops 43 

Violet Drops 43 

Catechu Drops 43 

Ginger Drops 43 

Lemon Drops 43 

Rose Drops 43 

Peppermint Drops 43 

Orange-flower Drops 43 

Orgeat Drops 43 

Raspberry Drops 43 

SECT. IX. Com/its. 

Scotch Caraway Comfits 44 

Bath Caraways 45 

Common Caraways 45 

Cinnamon Comfits 45 

Coriander Comfits 46 

Celery Comfits 46 

Caraway Comfits, pearled 46 

Almond Comfits 46 

Cardamom Comfits 46 

Barberry Comfits 46 

Cherry Comfits 47 

Comfits flavoured with Liqueurs 47 

Orange Comfits 47 

Lemon Peel or Angelica 47 

Nonpareils 47 

To colour Nonpareils or Comfits 47 

COMFITS IN GUM PASTE. 

Raspberry Comfits 47 

Ginger Comfits 47 

Clove Comfits 48 

To colour Loaf-sugar Dust ... 48 

SECT. X. Fruit Jetties. 

Apple Jelly 49 

Quince Jelly 43 

Red Currant Jelly 4g 

White and Black Currant Jelly 49 

Violet-coloured Currant Jolty . . 49 

Cherry Jelly 49 

Barberry Jelly 49 

Raspberry Jelly 49 

Gooseberry Jelly 49 

Blackberry Jelly 49 

SECT. XI. Marmalades or Jams. 

Apple Marmalade 50 

Quince Marmalade 50 

Apricot Marmalade or Jam ... 50 

Cherry Marmalade or Jam ... 50 

Orange Marmalade 50 

Grape Marmalade 50 

SECT. XII. Of Fruit and other 
Pastes. 

Fruit Pastes and Cakes 51 

Apple or Pippin Paste 51 

Apple Cheese 51 

Apricot Paste 51 

Green Apricot Paste 52 

Currant Paste 52 

Black Currant Paste 52 

Raspberry Paste 52 

Cherry Paste 52 

Peach Paste 52 

Plum Paste 52 

Damson Cheese ... 52 

Quince Paste 53 

Orange Paste 53 

Lemon Paste ... 53 

Raspberry Cakes 53 

Clear Cakes, or Jelly Cakes . . 53 

Marshmallow Paste 54 

Arabic Paste 54 

Date Paste 55 

Jujube Paste 55 

Senegal Paste 55 

White Liquorice Paste 55 

Black Liquorice Paste 55 

Jujube Gum 55 

Gomme des Dattes 56 

Gum of Violets 56 

Almond Paste Orgeat Paste. . 56 
SECT. XIII. Fruits Preserved 
with Sugar. 

WET FRUITS ... 56 

Green Apricots, wet 57 

Green Apricots, pared wet 58 

Ripe Apricots, wet 58 

Ripe Peaches, whole, wet 58 

Ripe Nectarines, wet 58 

Figs, wet 58 

Greengages, wet 58 

Mogul Plums 59 

Damsons, wet 59 

Green Gooseberries, wet 59 

Green Gooseberries in the form 

of Hops, wet 59 

Cucumbers or Gherkins, wet. . 59 

Green Melons 60 

Ripe Melons, w et 60 

Lemons, whole, T vet 60 

Oranges, whole, wet 60 

Whole Orange Peels 60 

Orange or Lemon Peels, wet. . 60 

Orange or Lemon Chips 61 

Angelica, wet 61 

Eringo Root 61 

Pine Apple, whole, wet 61 

Pine Apple Chips or Slices ... 61 

Cherries, wet or dry 62 

Whole Cherries 62 

Grapes in Bunches 62 

Currants in Bunches, wet 62 

Barberries in Bunches, wet. . . 63 

Raspberries, whole, wet 63 

Pears, whole, wet 63 

Pears, Red, wet 63 

Quinces, Red or White, wet. . 64 

Ginger, wet 64 

Candied Fruit 64 

Dried Fruit 64 

SECT. XIV. Compotes. 

Green Apricot Compote 65 

Ripe Apricot Compote 65 

Compote of Apples, with Jelly. 65 

Apple Compote 65 

Grape Compote 65 

Currant Compote 65 

Raspberry Compote 66 

Strawberry Compote 66 

Macedoine of Fruits 66 

Cherry Compote 66 

SECT. XV. Brandy Fruits.. . . 66 
SECT. XVI. On Bottled Fruits, 
or Fruits Preserved without 

Sugar 67 

SECT. XVII. Of Cooling Drinks 
for Balls and Routs. 
Gooseberry, Currant, Raspberry 
and Strawberry Waters 68 

Cherry Water 69 

Apricot and Peach Water 69 

Orgeat Water 69 

Lemonade 69 

Orangeade 69 

SECT. XVIII. ices. 

To freeze Ices 70 

Cream Ices 72 

Raspberry, fresh fruit and Jam 72 

Strawberry 73 

Currant, fresh & preserved fruit 73 

Barberry Ice 73 

Apricot, fresh Fruit, and Jam. . 73 

Peach Ice 73 

Pine Apple, fresh & preserved ft. 73 

Ginger Ice 73 

Brahma Ice 73 

Orange Ice Cream 73 

China Orange Ice Cream 74 

Cherry Ice Cream 74 

Harlequin Ice 74 

Lemon Ice Cream 74 

Mille Fruit Crcarn Ice 74 

Custard Ices 74 

Custard for Ices 74 

Plornbiere Ice, or Swiss Pudding 74 

The Sauce 75 

Almond or Orgeat Ice Cream . 75 

Pistachio Ice Cream 75 

Filbert Ice Cream 75 

Chestnut Ice 75 

Burnt Filbert Ice Cream 75 

Burnt Almond Ice Cream .... 75 

Coffee Ice Cream 75 

Chocolate Ice 76 

Tea Ice 76 

Vanilla Ice 76 

Noyau Cream Ice 76 

Maraschino Cream Ice 76 

Water Ices 77 

Currant Water lee 77 

Cherry Water Ice 77 

Gooseberry Water Ice 77 

Raspberry Water Ice 77 

Apricot Water Ice 77 

Peach Water Ice 77 

Damson Ice 77 

Pine-Apple Water Ice 78 

Fresh Pine- Apple Water Ice. . 78 

Apple-water Ice 78 

Pear- Water Ice 78 

Orange- Water Ice 78 

Lemon-Water Ice 78 

Maraschino- Water Ice 78 

Punch-Water Ice 78 

Roman Punch Ice 79 

Mille Fruit Water Ice 79 

SECT. XIX.- Jellies. 

Calves' Feet Jellies 79 

Coffee Jelly 79 

Tea Jelly, Green or Black 79 

FRUIT JELLIES. 

Strawberry Jelly 80 

Pine- Apple Jelly 80 

Jelly of Apricots 80 

Orange Jelly 80 

Blanc Mange 80 

SECT. XX. Essences. 

Lemon, Orange, and Bergamot. 81 

Essence de Cedrat 81 

Allspice, Cloves, Cinnamon, or 

Nutmegs, &c 82 

Ginger, Peppermint, Vanilla, 

and Almonds 82 

SECT. XXI. Meringues, Icing. 

Dry, in the form of Eggs 82 

Kisses 83 

Italian Meringues 83 

Mushrooms 83 

Icing for Wedding or Twelfth 

Cakes, &c 84 

On piping Cakes, Bon-bons, &c. 84 

SECT. XXII. Gum Paste. 

For Ornaments . 85 

For Gilding on 86 

Papier Machee 86 

To gild Gum Paste, &c 86 

To Bronze Gum Paste 87 

On the Construction of Assiettes 

and Pieces Montees 87 

Of Pieces Montees 88 

Biscuit Paste to imitate Marble 

Rocks, &c 88 

Confectioners' Paste 89 

Assiettes Monies, or Dressed 

Plates 89 

On Modelling 90 

Modelling Tools 92 

Modelling Wax 92 

SECT. XXIII. On Colours. 

To Prepare Cochineal 92 

Carmine, Yellow, Prussian Blue. 

Sap Grsen, & Spinach Green 93 

Vermilion and Cinnabar 94 

Bole Ammoniac, Umber, Bistre, 

andBLck 94 

THE SHADES PRODUCED BY A Mix- 

TURK OF COLOURS. 
Purple, Lilac, Orange, Gold, Le- 
mon, and Green 94 

SECT. XXIV. Distillation. 

ON ESSENTIAL OILS 95 

DISTILLED WATERS. 
Orange-Flower, & Rose Water 96 
Cinnamon, Pepper mint, Lemon- 
Peel, & Black-Cherry Water 97 

SPIRITS FOR LIQUEURS. 
Distilled Spirituous Waters for 

Liqueurs 98 

Hungary Water 98 

Maraschino de Zara 98 

Kirchenwasser. . , .99 

Eau Divine 99 

Eau de Cologne 99 

Curasao 99 

Eau de Melisse des Cannes. . . 99 

The English Method 99 

Spirit of Coffee, and Almonds . 99 
Spirit of Tea, and Usquebaugh. 100 

LIQUEURS 100 

RATAFIAS. 

Ratafia de Cafe 100 

Ratafia de Cacao 100 

Ratafia des Noyaux 100 

Ratafia of Cherries 101 

Ratafia des Cassis 101 

Ratafia of Raspberries 101 

Ratafia des Fleurs des Oranges 101 

Ratafia d'CEillets 101 

Ratafia d'Angelique 101 

Vespetro 101 

Chr&ne de Barbade 101 

Chrdme d'Orange 101 

Ratafia d'Anis 101 

Ratafia de Brout des Noix 102 

SECT. XXV. The Stove or Hot 
Closet 102 



THE PASTRY-COOK. 

INTRODUCTION 103 

BLANCHED AXMONDS, ICING, PRE- 
PARED TREACLE, & RENNET.. 104 

FANCY BISCUITS. 

Abernethy, American, Brighton, 
Buttered, Captains, Drop, Fil- 
bert, Lemon, and Naples ... 105 

Queens, Rout, Savoy, Seedy, 
Wine, York, and Powder. . . 106 

Drops, and Cracknels 107 

SECT. I. The Oven. 

Cakes 107 

Savoy Cakes 108 

Cold Mixtures 108 

Almond Savoy Cakes and Al- 
mond Hearts 109 

VeniceCake 109 

Savoy, to represent a Melon . . 109 
Savoy, to imitate a Hedgehog.. 109 
Bordeaux or Parisian Cakes . . 110 

Italian Bread 110 

Rice Pound Cake 110 

Wafers 110 

CAKES. 

Almond Cakes 110 

Almond Savoy 111 

Bride,* Bath, and Banbury 111 

Breakfast 112 

Cinnamon, Currant, Caraway, 
Common Cheese, Curd Cheese, 

and Almond Cheese 112 

Lemon Cheese, Derby, Diet 
Bread, Ginger, Lord Mayors, 

and Lunch 113 

Moss, Macaroon, Plum, Pound, 
and Prussian 114 

Queens, Queen's Drops, Rout, 

Raspberry, and Ratafias. ... 115 
Savoy, Sponge, Seed, Shrews- 
bury, Tea, Twelfth, and York- 
shire 116 

York Drops, Anne Page's, York 
Cakes, Jumbles, Cinnamon 
Biscuit, Hazlenut Kisses, and 
Vanilla Biscuit 117 

Trifle, Cocoanut, Sans Soucies, 
Cocoa Biscuit, Lady Cake, 
and Lady Fingers 118 

Spoon Biscuit, Small Biscuits 
with Almonds, Biscuits with 
Cream, Biscuits glazed with 
Chocolate 119 

Biscuits glazed with Orange. 120 

FANCY BREAD, GINGER-BREAD, 
BUNS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, CRUM- 
PETS, &,c. 

Almond Bread, Colchester, and 
Diet 120 

French Rolls, Short Bread, 
Queen's Ginger-Bread, Spice 
Ginger-Bread, Thick Ginger- 
Bread, and Sweetmeat Nuts. . 121 

Spice Nuts, Muffins, Wheat 
Muffins, Rice Muffins, Rice 
Cakes, and Buckwheat Cakes 122 

Flannel Cakes, Indian Slappers, 
Jolmny-Cake, Corn Bread, 
Crumpets, and Rusks 123 

Sweet Rusks, Tops & Bottoms 124 

OF PASTES IN GENERAL PRELI- 
MINARY REMARKS 124 

To MAKE PUFF PASTE. 

Ingredients, &c 125 

Puff, Short, and Tart Pastes . . 126 

Apricot Tart r 126 

Covered and Raspberry Tarts . 127 
Mince Pies, and Raised Pie. . . 127 


THE BAKER. 

INTRODUCTION 128 

GENERAL REMARKS ON BAKING. . 129 
FAMILY LOAF-BREAD 132 

Brown or Diet Bread 134 

Bread not liable to become Bit- 
ter 134 

ARTIFICIAL YEASTS. 

Yeast to Preserve 135 

Potatoe Yeast 135 

Dr. Lettsom's Method 135 

Artificial Yeast 135 

Patent Yeast ' . . 136 

ALUM, POTATOES, &c 137 

METHOD OF MAKING BAKERS' 
BREAD. 

The Old Method 141 

Modern Method 142 

SUBSTITUTE FOR WHEAT-FLOUR 
BREAD. 

Bread Corn 143 

Rice 145 

Potatoes 145 

Bread made of Roots 147

Ragwort 147 

Turnip Bread 147 

Apple Bread 148 

Meslin Bread 148 

Salep Bread 143 

Oat and Barley Bread 148 

Debretzen Bread 148 

Millet Bread 149 

Maize Bread 149 

Homminy Cake 149 

Bean Flour Bread 149 

Buckwheat Bread 149 

Acorn Bread 150 

Oatmeal Cakes 150 

Oatmeal and Pease Bread .... 150 

Chestnut Bread 150 

Potatoe Bread 150 

Rye Bread Barley Bread 150 

The Bread Tree 151 

Bread Fruit Bread 152 

Sago Bread . . 152 

Casava Bread 153 

Plantain Bread 1 53 

Banana Bread 153 

Moss Bread 154 

Dried Fish Bread 154 

Earth Bread 154