It is possible–No! It is likely–that I will revisit and rewrite this article/recipe more than a couple of times.
Pulled pork is an easy thing to do. It’s also an easy thing to mess up by trying to make more of it than it is. Simple is really the best way to go, and there are a number of different but SIMPLE ways to come at a good pulled pork sandwich. My favorite is made by Bobo Lee at Bobo’s Po’ Pig on Highway 174, on the way to Edisto Beach, South Carolina. Bobo’s pulled pork is all about the pork. It isn’t heavily seasoned but rather delicate. It is this simple and there really isn’t a recipe.
Starting at 7PM on an evening when you have some free time the next morning, take a pork shoulder, skin scored or not. Put it in a closed cooking vessel like a turkey roasting pan. Sprinkle with lots of salt, some pepper and some paprika. [If you want to add some onions, garlic, bourbon or something like that, go ahead. It won’t hurt and it smells good while it cooks] Heat the oven to 500º and put the pork in and turn the oven down to 200º, go about your evening routine, go to bed, sleep, wake up, and take the pork out of the oven some time after 7AM. It’s not going to overcook if you let it go longer by a couple of hours, but twelve hours is a good length of time.
Open the pan and remove bones and skin from the shoulder. This is best done in the roasting pan. [I leave the bones and skin in the pan for right now; it makes clean up easier.] Move the hunks of hot meat and any fat that clings to them to a bowl and pull it apart with your hands or forks. While still warm, pour on the sauce…. A five- or six-pound piece of meat will take between a pint and a quart depending on how much you like. The pork will cry for salt at this point, too. Toss the meat around until all the sauce is absorbed and the meat is ‘pulled’. Taste it. You might want more sauce. The meat can absorb a lot of sauce.
It can be eaten now or refrigerated. It will be all right for a couple of days, but your seasoning will begin to weaken; so when you heat it up, you might need to add more sauce.
That’s pulled pork. There are variations for the pulling sauce. In South Carolina we use yellow ones. You can make a pretty good one by combining a small jar of mustard–it can be French’s, but I like Gray Poupon–vinegar, a little sugar, something hot–if you like that–maybe a few dashes of Worcestershire sauce and stir it up to combine. You can even cook the sauce for a few minutes if you want to and I sometimes do.
It is also acceptable to use a store-bought sauce. What is NOT acceptable is a tomato-based sauce. This is a pig not a cow. Pig meat has an affinity for mustard. Don’t take my word for it; ask a Frenchman or a South Carolina pit master. That’s not to say there can’t be any tomatoes in it, but the base is mustard and vinegar and the color is yellow–mostly.
Many people don’t do anything more, at this point, than put it on a bun with a little cole slaw. There is usually some sort of moistening sauce on the table, for those who want it. Usually, for the jaded or burned palates among us, there are also bottles of pepper, vinegar, and plain hot sauce to go with the bbq sauce. The bbq sauces aren’t closely held secrets. They are variations on mustard and vinegar, with varying amounts of heat, seasonings, and tomato paste, some herbs, and maybe some more Worcestershire. The color, for South Carolina barbeque, is yellow.
North Carolina runs to red and is sweeter and is usually cooked with smoke. It’s a different kind of pulled pork. North Carolina also chops its pig meat, while South Carolina pulls theirs. They do look similar, but more falls out of the bun when it's chopped. Both find the use of cole slaw acceptable, but as with the bbq, North Carolina cole slaw is sweeter. These variations are both good. I am partial to the South Carolina style, but that’s what I grew up with. North Carolinians prefer it their way.
It is usual to serve pulled pork on a bun; a cheap bun with Sesame seeds is preferred with some cole slaw and table sauces—the bun is just a holder and no purpose is served by having a nice crusty sourdough bun, because pulled pork is somewhat delicate both in flavor and texture and biting through a crusty bun will cause the contents to ooze aside from the bite. Sometimes, pulled pork is served from a buffet with rice, collards, tomatoes and okra, okra, various bean preparations, cornbread, pork hash—at least two kinds—and hush puppies. There are claims in various pulled pork joints that the sandwich is health food. It must be because it makes a body happy.
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