I frequently complain about the lack of local produce in my old home state of South Carolina, about how a place that once produced some of the finest vegetables in the world and shipped them off to the northeast markets, can’t seem to come up with a tomato grown locally or a cucumber or onion these days because Agribusiness has put the small local producers out of business by selling every kind of formerly local food cheaper than local farmers can produce it.   

    Contrast this situation with the local food scene in NY, my current home state, and it’s enough to make one weep. Over flowing farmer’s markets and green markets operate all year round. South Carolina is a surprising place, however, and every so often something unexpected and wonderful happens on the food scene. In Columbia there is Caw Caw Creek Farms with Emile DeFelice’s pastured pork and southern style prosciutto hams.  Emile has breakfast sausage that’s to die for, bacon that renders enough fat from a pound to fry a couple of chickens and magnificent chops and roasts.

    There is also Michael Cordray’s Cordray Farms in Ravenel. This farm has been around for a hundred or so years according to the web site, but I met Michael because, like many small farmers, he has a sideline business; he runs an excellent deer processing plant and many of us drive by a couple of other processors to get our venison put up by the best. Michael also produces some beef cattle.  Usually by the time I am getting my venison done he has sold out of his beef, but I was there a week or so ago – early for me – and his cooler was full of beef and the sign “Beef’s Ready” was still out on the main entrance.  Michael’s beef is pastured beef with some grain finishing. I like to avoid grain fed animals if possible, but I thought to try some of the beef. 

   The site states, "Since we provide beef from a limited number of small family farms our quantities are very limited.  We process only a few cattle a year. It takes about 2 years for a steer to mature.  We are slowly increasing our herd, planning now for the 2010 season! As you'll see when you come to visit, our cows graze at will on grass and hay. We grind our own feed from locally grown corn, soybean meal and molasses to help "finish" them during the last few months.  They never receive injections, antibiotics, artificial growth hormones or anything that cattle didn't get 100 years ago when Cordrays first started raising all natural beef."

    I was delighted to find that he had several packages of short ribs. He labels them Beef Rib Stew so maybe they aren’t exactly short ribs even though that’s what they look like. I bought three of the five packages there and hauled them back to NY with the deer cuts he had put up for me.  We are having dinner guests tonight and I thought to serve them something entirely seasonal and more or less local (to me anyway with my peregrinations back and forth).

    I seasoned the meat with salt and pepper and a little smoked paprika and then rolled the pieces in flour and browned them on all sides. I put them aside and sautéed a mess of finely chopped vegetables – all local from the Hastings Farmer’s Market (carrots, celery, tomatoes and leaks). The pan got a little degreasing with some left over American white wine and then I added in some home made beef stock from the freezer. I put the beef back in the pot with everything and brought it back to simmer and slammed it in the oven for two hours. When finished, I removed the meat; discarded the bones and put the liquids through a food mill and put the meat back in and let it rest.  I did taste it, though, I can honestly say that these are as good as any short ribs I ever made.

    Michael has – or had when I was there – just about all the cuts a cow can be separated into. Like I said, he sells out pretty quickly and now I know why.  If there is anything left when I get back, I’ll get some more. I have an eye round roast that I intend to do the slow cook way mentioned here. I’m not going to report Cordray's prices because he doesn’t charge enough for what he sells. Besides, he posts the prices on his site. I don't think he ships so a visit is required.

    South Carolina is coming on strong in the proteins – pigs and beef. It’s only a matter of time before someone starts making with the vegetables. There are many folks in the low country and right on up through the low mountains of western SC that know good food and would appreciate being able to buy it – especially locally grown. I hope, while SC is still somewhat under developed and farmers can still afford land to farm, that the remaining farmers find a way to return to growing some of the most nutritious and tasty food in America and selling it locally.